REF Permanent Hair Color, Ashes

REF Stockholm Specifications

From the time of ancient Egyptian women until today, women have always sought ways to enhance their natural beauty. We have evolved from Henna, herbs and spices to the combination of nature and 21st Century science to develop hair colour that performs to the highest standards and expectations of today’s modern women.

REF Hair Colour limits the amount of chemicals used in the production of it’s products adding natural ingredients to enhance condition, shine and durability to our colouring system.

ALOE VERA Long known for it’s healing and moisturizing properties, Aloe also brings antibacterial and soothing ingredients to the scalp during the process.

LOW AMMONIA With less than 2% average Ammonia content, REF ensures proper lift and deposit ratios at any level of colour choice.

ANTI AGING Contains “Thermus thermophilus”, an effective, heat activated antioxidant that pro[1]tects the hair and scalp from both UV-A and UV-B rays.

 

THE CLASSIFICATION METHOD

REF Hair Colour System refers to the International numbering system:

Number before the decimal = Hair colour level

First number after the decimal = Main Reflex *(tone)

Second number after the decimal = Secondary Reflex *(tone)

 

This is an example of the colour influence breakdown:

7.0 100% Natural Level Olive Green based colour.

7.00 100% Natural level 7 with heavier pigment load for Grey coverage.

7.3 50% Natural level 7, 50% Gold influence.

7.31 50% Natural level 7, 30% Gold influence, 20% Ash influence

7.036 70%Natural level 7, 20% Gold influence, 10 Red influence

5.66 25% Natural level 5, 75 % Red influence

 * Reflex= REF interpretation of reflection

1. Black
2. Extra Dark Brown
3. Dark Brown
4. Brown
5. Light Brown
6. Dark Blonde
7. Blonde
8. Light Blonde
9. Very Light Blonde
10. Extra Light Blonde
11. Special High Lift

 

Hair color levels

Hair colour levels are classified using the reference scale: (From the darkest to the lightest shade)

 

0 Natural

.00 Intense natural

.1 Ash

.2 Pearl

.3 Golden

.4 Copper

.5 Red Brown

.6 Red

.7 Violet

.9 Green

To identify the type of tone the numbering system defining the colour level is followed by a second number separated by a dot.

                           Example 5.56

                           5 = Level

                           5 = primary tone of red/brown

                           6 = secondary tone of red

 

PRIMARY AND SECONDARY COLORS

The three primary colors are:

REF COLOUR WHEELS

The two Colour Wheels represent the basic colourimetry. The placement of the colours helps you define the primary, secondary and tertiary colours and to identify comple[1]mentary colours. For example, the colour purple and yellow are on the opposite sides of the wheel which shows that they are each others complementary colours. Blended in equal parts, they neutralise the reflection.

This Wheel shows the nuances that has a higher quantity of basic brown pigment*, for a total grey coverage. The .00 and.003 are double pigmented colours which gives a darker result and is placed accordingly.

This Wheel shows the nuances that has a higher amount of reflections and gives a vibrant, intense colour result.

* When mixing three primary colours you obtain brown. The natural colours have a variable intensity of brown according to the level. This is to ensure a perfect grey coverage.

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF REF COLORS

• REF colours are a soft, fluid cream easily dispensed from the tube.
• On mixing with the developer, it transform into a gel cream, releasing colouring and conditioning substances into the hair
• It should be mixed in a plastic bowl, bottle or shaker, mixing thoroughly to obtain a smooth cream. Don’t use metal objects (bowl, brush, whisk) in the mixing process.
• The use of electric scales is recommended to guarantee a correct and easy-torepeat formulation and mixing ratio, ensuring that the client will always have the same perfect colour.

 

REF Cream Developer:

REF colours are designed to work with REF. dedicated Developers available in 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume. Choice of developer will depend upon amount of lift or deposit required for required process.

• 10 Volume / 3%: Level on level colour, darker col[1]ouring or toning. 10 Volume delivers 100% deposit and up to 1 level of lift.
• 20 Volume / 6%: Grey coverage, and up to 2 levels of lightening. 20 volume delivers 80% deposit and up to 2 Levels of lift.
• 30 Volume / 9%: High lift blonding or lifting action. 30 Volume delivers 60% deposit and up to 3 Levels of lift.
• 40 Volume / 12%: Ultra high lift blonding, maximum lifting action. 40 Volume delivers 40% deposit and up to 4 levels of lift.

All developers may be mixed in equal ratios to achieve between volumes, e.g. 30 ml of 20 vol + 30 ml of 30 vol = 25 vol.

APPLICATION

• Apply to unwashed dry hair under normal circumstances. If hair is exceptionally dirty, hair may be washed and towel dried before application.
• Application is quicker, more accurate and more economical thanks to the special cream-gel cosmetic formula designed to make the product adhere to the cuticle allowing the brush to slide down the whole length of the hair shaft.

 

APPLICATION

VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION (lightening)

• A preliminary sensitivity test is recommended.
• The use of scales is recommended for greater accuracy and perfect reformulation.
• Apply to dry, unwashed hair.

 

Step 1

• Apply the defined colour mixture to the lengths and ends, processing time 20 minutes.

Step 2

• Prepare the desired mixture again and apply it to the roots, processing time 20-25 minutes.
• Total processing time 40-45 minutes.

 

RE-TOUCH OR RE-GROWTH (coloured hair)

Step 1

• Apply part of the chosen mixture to the re-growth; the processing time must be appropriate for the diagnosis carried out (5-15 minutes)

Step 2

• Distribute the remain of the product on the lengths and ends.
• Complete the processing time.
• Total processing time 30-40 minutes.
• This type of application refreshes the colour throughout the mid lengths and ends leaving the hair soft and shiny.
• N.B. if the re-growth is more that 5 cm follow the instructions for the first application.

GREY COVERAGE

REF colours have been formulated for level to level results on 70% grey hair

For a percentage of less than 50% it’s best to use a lighter shade. For example: to obtain a 7 use a 8.

From 50% to 70% apply shade on shade for example; To obtain a 7 use a 7. Over 70% white hair, use a darker shade, for example; to obtain a 7 use a 6.

X.00 (Intense naturals) contains more pigments and is designed to provide better grey coverage on resistant hair that has over 50% white.

 

PRE– PIGMENTING RESISTANT AREAS

White hair around the hairline and temples can be more resistant to cover. In these instances pre-pigmenting these areas will prove to enhance coverage and desired results.

ALWAYS PRE– PIGMENT WITH A COLOUR TWO LEVELS LIGHTER THAN DESIRED LEVEL, WITH GOLD INFLUENCE.

Example: Pre-pigment front section with 8.3

• Natural hair colour dark blonde(6)
• Front section of grey hair 80-100%
• Desired result dark blonde golden (6.3)

Process:

Step 1- Pre-pigmentation

• Apply the pure colour cream, (app. 5-20gr) to the area with the highest concentration of grey hair.

Step 2- Coloring

• Apply the chosen colour (6.3) mixed with developer at 20 vol directly on top of the pre-pigmentation.
• In this case pre-pigmentation gives grey hair a quantity of coloured pigments that will then be completed by the normal application of colour resulting in perfect cov[1]erage of grey hair.

 

RE-PIGMENTATION

When hair is lightened, underlying pigments are removed to create blonde tones. This technique involves replacing the missing underlying pigments that support the colour at the level to which you wish to colour.

• Warm tones must always be used to replenish the underlying missing tone (colours with Golden .3, Copper .4 or Red .6 tones)

WHEN TO RE-PIGMENT?

The technique of re-pigmentation is used when you wish to:

• Darken previously coloured or highlighted hair by two or more levels.
• RE-colour highly stressed hair. (for example excessively lightened with highlights or de-colourized). Hair with these characteristics will only absorb cool tones due to molecular size of colour.
• Replacing missing warm pigments ensures proper tonality of finished colourization.

 

The technique of re-pigmentation is used when you wish to:

• Darken previously coloured or highlighted hair by two or more levels.
• RE-colour highly stressed hair. (for example excessively lightened with highlights or de-colourized). Hair with these characteristics will only absorb cool tones due to molecular size of colour.
• Replacing missing warm pigments ensures proper tonality of finished colourization.

 HOW TO RE-PIGMENT?

• Previously lightened hair lacks warm pigments.
• These tones must be restored to ensure that the color is absorbed evenly and therefore preventing it from taking on dull tones or too much ash (choose the REF color in a golden tone (x.3), copper (x.4) or golden copper (x.34)). This colour should always be one that is two levels lighter (than desired result) with warm.

 EXAMPLE RE-PIGMENTATION

The proper colour for each level must be achieved by combining the following colours for the appropriate levels:

• All of these formulas should be applied with equal parts 10 volume developer and equal parts water. Example: 30 gr colour + 30 gr 10 vol + 30 gr wáter.
• This mixture can be applied to all decolourized hair at the same time and proc[1]essed for 20 minutes. Rinsed thoroughly and towel dried. Apply chosen REF. col[1]our with 10 vol Developer.

COLOUR CORRECTORS

Colour Correction or adding intensity.

REF colour corrector are pure colour tones, used to add extra tonal intensity to any REF colour or correct the tone. The lighter the base shade, the less mix is required.

E.g.;

• Desired result: 7.46 with more red pigments. Mix 50gr 7.46 + 4,0 gr Red corrector + 81gr 10 vol(3% Peroxide).
• Desired result: Special high lift pearl ash. To obtain a cooler result, mix 50 gr 12.21 + 5-15gr silver corrector depending on start level) + 130-140gr 40vol/12%

PURE APPLICATION

• To intensify strands or sections of the hair, REF colour corrector can be used purely with cream developer to give ex[1]ceptional, brilliant color results. (apply to pre-bleached hair)
• Mix 1 part REF colour corrector to 1:5 parts cream developer

CORRECTOR NEUTRAL

This colouring product allows colour stylist to obtain highly satisfying results.

• Used in 20% amounts of the formula neutral will lighten any colour by one level, leaving the colour clearer and more brilliant.
• Example: 40gr 7.43 +10gr Neutral corrector + 75gr developer cream 10 vol or 20 vol .
• Result: a lighter and more luminous copper/golden blonde.
• Mix neutral with 30-40 vol developer cream. A lightening cream is obtained that can be applied to both natural and coloured hair and is useful for obtaining mild lightening or very natural looking high lights. Expect 2 to 3 levels of lift depending upon application used.
• This mixture may be used over the colour application to achieve a beautiful natural highlighted effect. · Used in special cases it can resolve various problems related to colour evenness.
• Example: client with 70% of grey hair at the front and 20% at the back. By apply[1]ing, for example a 7.0, a lighter colour will be obtained at the front and a darker one at the back.
• Solution: apply a 7.0 to the part with the highest concentration of grey hair, add 10gr of neutral and 15gr of developer to the remaining mixture and apply it to the part with the lowest concentration of grey hair.
• Result: a more even colour will be obtained.