When the seasons change, many clients look to refresh their look, and one of the most common requests is transitioning from summer’s bright blondes to the richer, deeper tones of winter brunettes. While the idea may seem simple, the process of making this shift requires careful technique and a solid understanding of color theory to maintain hair health and ensure the results are both flattering and lasting. Here are some best practices for stylists to guide clients through this seasonal transition.
1. Assess the Condition of the Hair
After a season of sun, saltwater, and chlorine, blondes may have sustained more damage than usual. Before diving into color, take the time to assess the condition of the hair. Summer exposure often leads to dryness and porosity, which can impact how well new color takes. In many cases, a treatment to restore moisture and strengthen the hair may be essential before applying darker tones. Recommend a deep conditioning treatment or bond-repair service to bring the hair back to optimal health.
2. Plan for Gradual Darkening
For clients with very light blonde shades, it’s often best to transition gradually rather than opting for a drastic change in a single session. Going from platinum blonde to deep brunette too quickly can cause the hair to absorb the color unevenly, resulting in dull or patchy results. Instead, suggest introducing lowlights or blending darker tones into the blonde over a couple of sessions. This process not only minimizes shock to the client but also allows you to maintain dimension and depth in the final look.
3. Pre-Fill Blonde Hair for Better Coverage
When transitioning from blonde to brunette, one of the key steps is filling the hair with the correct undertones. Blonde hair lacks the warm pigments naturally present in darker shades, and skipping the filling step can lead to cool, flat, or even greenish tones. Begin by applying a filler or a warm base color to replace the missing pigments, helping the brunette shade appear rich and vibrant. Whether you're aiming for a cool espresso or a warm chestnut, the fill color sets the foundation for even coverage and longer-lasting results.
4. Customize the Depth and Tone
Not all brunettes are created equal, and each client’s skin tone, eye color, and personal style will inform what shade of brunette works best. For clients with cooler undertones, neutral or ash brunettes will flatter, while those with warmer undertones might suit chocolate or caramel shades. Incorporating balayage or ombré techniques can also help soften the transition, blending lighter ends with darker roots, creating dimension and movement that feel natural and stylish.
5. Consider the Longevity of the Color
Brunettes may require less upkeep than blondes, but proper maintenance is still crucial for preserving the richness and vibrancy of the color. Educate clients on how to extend the life of their new brunette shade with proper aftercare. Sulfate-free shampoos, color-protecting conditioners, and regular gloss treatments can prevent fading and keep the hair looking glossy and vibrant between appointments.
6. Protect Hair During Future Color Changes
Remind clients that while they may love their new winter brunette, they might want to go lighter again when spring arrives. When applying darker color, aim for techniques that will be easier to lift later. Lowlights, root shadowing, and ombré can create a multidimensional effect without committing to a full head of dark color, making it easier to transition back to blonde in the future.